Skip to main content

Under-Deck Fairleads and Double-Purchase Swing Arm

Spent a bit of time getting things sorted out down below.

One of my many experiments on this build, is to see if I could make a laser cut double swing arm that can hold up. So far, I think it will.

Then the question was how to attach the sheets to the arm such that they will easily run. I found on eBay, two Pekabe single blocks with a bolt so that you could bolt it to the deck. They work really well for the swing arm too though. I had to trim the ends of the bolts after installing though, as they were too long. The Dremel Tool took care of that in seconds.

Finally, I had to find a way to route the sheets to the arm so that the sheets would not rub against the deck supports of the frames. So I ordered two small plastic fairleads from Midwest Model Yachting. I mounted them to one end of a 2" block of hardwood. On the other end was mounted a screw-eyebolt to tie the sheets to.

Here is how it looks:


Here is how it looks with the sails all the way out:


Here they are at a reach:


Here they are fully sheeted in:


Another view from the front. Yes, I did a very sloppy job gluing them in, but no one will ever see it again once I get the deck on!


The mainsheet runs 15.75" and the jib sheet runs 11" due to the different lengths of the two sides of the arm.

Starting to think about the deck now!



Aloha!



Comments

Popular posts from this blog

IOM Alignment and Measuring Jig (UPDATED)

I need to start to consider how I'll mount the fin and bulb, and get it all straight, so I made a 3D modeled alignment jig:



Ian Dundas in Scottland sent me pictures of his setup. I just bought a laser level too! He does amazing work and has been a great help in this project so far.




There is also another jig featured on page 14 of the winter 2008 Canadian Radio Yacht Association (CRYA) newsletter that features one. It's by Lawire Neish. Read it here.

I took both those designs and made my own version that features sliding cradles for the hull, a fixed waterline sight, proper depth to cradles for the bulb, etc... Most of the parts can be laser cut, and the two end pieces and the base can easily be cut on a tablesaw.

It has fixed waterline sights that are 420mm above the top edges of the bulb sliders in the base. The fore and aft cradles can be slid up and down to adjust the waterline of the hull. You'll see that the overall interior length is 1003mm to accommodate the aft…

IOM Rig Box (IOM Sail Box) plans

So all the cool IOM kids seem to have nice wooden boxes to store their rigs in. This might be my next quick project then, so that I can pretend to be cool too. :-P

The rig box images that I've seen online are mostly similar, and would work well, but David Jensen from Bellevue, WA, USA (The same guy who designed a fantastic IOM boat stand I posted about earlier) has a really nice design that he shared on RC Groups. Or if that link doesn't work, the go here and search for "IOM sail box" or "IOM rig box".

It holds three sets of rigs for the A, B, and C rigs.


He also has a nifty way to attach his IOM boat stand, with a boat on it, to the rig box. His rig box has wheels attached, so once everything is loaded up he just wheels it to the launch spot. Very nice!



There are other sources online. They show different variations of the same type of sail box.

Here's a nice looking one.

Here's a YouTube video of a really nice one.

Will post more if I actually end…

IOM Sailboat Stand

I made an IOM boat stand!



The plans are from David Jensen in Bellevue, WA, USA. I found the plans through someone else's blog here, and a model sailboat club from Australia here.

It was pretty straightforward to build. My only contribution to the design is that I laser cut the cradle out of 1/8" Lite Ply. I made eight copies, and then epoxy laminated two sets of four each. Turned out really well.



If you wish to laser cut your own set, here is my DWG file. You'll have to have your own laser cutter, or send the job to a laser cutting company like National Balsa. Here are the original plans, and here are the original plans for just the cradle. Thanks to David Jensen!!

Note that in the picture below, my boat is not finished! Yikes.


You can't see it in this image, but there's a small chuck of self-stick foam behind the bulb to protect the bulb. I'll eventually incorporate some Velcro or a strap of some sort to hold the bulb in place so that I can use the carry-han…

Rip Tide RC Sailboat

Well I just hit the R/C Sailboat jackpot! Rod Carr, of Carr Sails in Redmond, WA, and the second ever member of the AMYA, just gifted me a Marblehead "Rip Tide" hull and many of the parts and templates to finish it! Thank you Rod!

I'm not sure when I'll be able to work on this, but hopefully it will turn into a fantastic vintage Marblehead. The gentleman who started it did a fantastic job. He was a true artist and I will do my best to get as close as I can to his workmanship but it will be a challenge.

Here are some pictures...


He even cast his own bulb and the mold came with the hull! I could probably start making my own fleet of Rip Tides as he also gave me many of the templates and such. I will only need to pin and epoxy the bulb to the fin and fair it smooth. It will be easy to do.


The frames look and feel like he hand cut them on a scroll saw, but they are very close to perfect. He used thicker plywood than I may have but they are very sturdy. The bow is very s…