Skip to main content

Hull Fiberglassed!

Wow... it's always an amazing experience to see how the hull colors come out when you fiberglass the cedar!

Today was a huge day for the new Sun Wind II. I finished, faired, and fiberglassed all day!

I added the final planks this morning, and let them cure. Then I faired the hull, and now I've added the fiberglass. Phew...

Here's the hull after fairing and sanding...


Make sure it's well wiped off.

Then drape the fiberglass over the hull. I made a slit so that the cloth would slip over the fin.


Trim the fiberglass cloth so that there is only about an inch or so of excess cloth below the sheer line. Then also make a slit at the bow.


Smooth the cloth over the hull and see how it easily conforms to the hull shape. Make sure  you like how it sits, as it's hard to move it once it's wetted out with epoxy.

Then gather your fiberglassing tools. I really only use a small, very flexible yellow epoxy squeegee thing. I've used it for kayaks and RC sailboats, and it works well with both heavy 6 oz. cloth on kayaks, and on this very light 1.4 oz. cloth for RC sailboats.

Do you have loads of newspapers that you can spill epoxy onto? Good, OK, now it's time to wet out the cloth.

I'm using the WEST System 105/205 epoxy. It comes with their "Mini Pumps". For this job, I mixed up three pumps each of resin and hardener. Those three pumps each covered one entire side just about perfectly. Don't just mix up six pumps though, the epoxy in those larger amounts starts to heat itself up from the chemical reaction and might seize up on you. It's better to just do one side at a time, and then mix up another three pumps for the other side.

Pour a pretty good amount of the epoxy onto the hull near the keel on one side only. Then use the squeegee to gently spread the epoxy over the cloth. Be careful not to move the cloth.

Once the entire side is covered, then mix up another three pumps and go do the other side.

Now, return to the first side, and with your squeegee and a plastic cup, start to squeegee the excess epoxy from the cloth. Start in the middle up at the fin. Don't press too hard, but enough so that the epoxy comes out enough so that you can see the weave of the cloth. Don't press hard enough that you starve the wood though! You can tell if the cloth starts to turn whitish. Work you way forward and aft, and then do the other side.

It won't be perfect, but you should end up seeing a lot of the weave. This allows for the cloth to sit down well onto the wood, instead of floating up on top of the epoxy and making ripples. The more  you can get the cloth to lay down, the smoother it will be when dry.

Here's how it looked afterward...

radio controlled sailboats Vintage Marblehead

radio controlled sailboats Vintage Marblehead


Not done yet though! Later the excess cloth was trimmed flush to the sheer line. Tomorrow... sanding, and then a second coat of epoxy.


Peace!

Radio controlled sailboats Vintage Marblehead

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

IOM Sailboat Stand

I made an IOM boat stand! The plans are from David Jensen in Bellevue, WA, USA. I found the plans through someone else's blog here , and a model sailboat club from Australia here . It was pretty straightforward to build. My only contribution to the design is that I laser cut the cradle out of 1/8" Lite Ply. I made eight copies, and then epoxy laminated two sets of four each. Turned out really well. If you wish to laser cut your own set, here is my DWG file . You'll have to have your own laser cutter, or send the job to a laser cutting company like National Balsa . Here are the original plans , and here are the original plans for just the cradle . Thanks to David Jensen!! Note that in the picture below, my boat is not finished! Yikes. You can't see it in this image, but there's a small chuck of self-stick foam behind the bulb to protect the bulb. I'll eventually incorporate some Velcro or a strap of some sort to hold the bulb in place so

IOM Rig Box (IOM Sail Box) plans

So all the cool IOM kids seem to have nice wooden boxes to store their rigs in. This might be my next quick project then, so that I can pretend to be cool too. :-P The rig box images that I've seen online are mostly similar, and would work well, but David Jensen from Bellevue, WA, USA (The same guy who designed a fantastic IOM boat stand I posted about earlier) has a really nice design that he shared on RC Groups . Or if that link doesn't work, the go here and search for " IOM sail box " or " IOM rig box ". It holds three sets of rigs for the A, B, and C rigs. He also has a nifty way to attach his IOM boat stand, with a boat on it, to the rig box. His rig box has wheels attached, so once everything is loaded up he just wheels it to the launch spot. Very nice! There are other sources online. They show different variations of the same type of sail box. Here's a nice looking one . Here's a YouTube video of a really nice one . Wil

A Wooden "Alternative" IOM RC Sailboat

Being forced to stay home due to the Coronavirus quarantine has had a positive impact on my boat building. I still haven't been able to sail my newly completed Vickers V8 IOM, yet have just planked and glassed a wooden Alternative IOM . It only took me eight days. It usually takes a couple weeks. I haven't been motivated to blog about it, but I started planking on 5 April and finished planking last night. Today I sanded and have fiberglassed the outside. The Alternative by Brad Gibson was a challenge to plank due to its up-swept bow and flared sheer near the bow. It turned out okay, but as any builder will tell you, there are goofs all over. One that I only discovered after sanding is a lighter colored plank on the starboard side. It really showed up after fiberglassing as the epoxy brought it out... GAAAAH! How did that get there? The other goofs I'll let you find, but that one is pretty obvious. Here's how it looks so far: Here you can see that mu

IOM Alignment and Measuring Jig (UPDATED)

I need to start to consider how I'll mount the fin and bulb, and get it all straight, so I made a 3D modeled alignment jig: Ian Dundas in Scottland sent me pictures of his setup. I just bought a laser level too! He does amazing work and has been a great help in this project so far. There is also another jig featured on page 14 of the winter 2008 Canadian Radio Yacht Association (CRYA) newsletter that features one. It's by Lawire Neish. Read it here . I took both those designs and made my own version that features sliding cradles for the hull, a fixed waterline sight, proper depth to cradles for the bulb, etc... Most of the parts can be laser cut, and the two end pieces and the base can easily be cut on a tablesaw. It has fixed waterline sights that are 420mm above the top edges of the bulb sliders in the base. The fore and aft cradles can be slid up and down to adjust the waterline of the hull. You'll see that the overall interior length is 1003mm t