This is months away, if it ever actually gets completed, but I thought I'd try to get some input on what should be included in " The Wooden International One Metre Construction Manual " for building... get this... a wooden IOM. I'm over 60 pages so far, but it's good to get other ideas and input. This is the third RC sailboat construction manual I've written, and it's the most accurate. But it's also the one that I have the most anxiety about because I'm still a rookie in the IOM world and others are building such gorgeous boats. Unlike Star 45's and Vintage Marbleheads, which are great but not raced as much, IOM's are still very popular. And everyone has their idea of what's best. My goals though are to: 1) Help grow the class and help people get into what is a very competitive and rules-based class. It's a very tough class to fully understand and to compete in. I'm still learning the racing side of IOM's myself, but ...

My printed version arrived! It looks great, if I do say so myself. It's in full color, with a coil binding so that it will stay open to any page. It comes in two formats: 1. Electronic PDF format for $25. Just send a PayPal payment to my account (stevedeligan@gmail.com), and then send an email to the same address. I'll reply with the PDF copy. You should get it within 24 hours normally. This is a nice option for those of you who have tablets, or who do your builds near a computer. The links work, and you can sometimes zoom in on the images for a better look. 2. Or PRINTED in full color with a coil binding so that it stays open to any page. Looks beautiful! It's available from Lulu Press for $45. I know that sounds expensive, but it's 123 pages of text and pictures on how to build the Sun Wind HF. It's a very niche book that is printed-on-demand, so it costs a lot to print each full-color copy. I've received lots of positive ...

The Vintage Marblehead Construction Manual is now available! It comes in two formats: 1. Electronic PDF format for $25. Just send a PayPal payment to my account (stevedeligan@gmail.com), and then send an email to the same address. I'll reply with the PDF copy. You should get it within 24 hours normally. This is a nice option for those of you who have tablets, or who do your builds near a computer. The links work, and you can sometimes zoom in on the images for a better look. 2. Or PRINTED in full color with a coil binding so that it stays open to any page. Looks beautiful! It's available from Lulu Press for $45. I know that sounds expensive, but it's 123 pages of text and pictures on how to build the Sun Wind HF. It's a very niche book that is printed-on-demand, so it costs a lot to print each full-color copy. I've received lots of positive feedback for my printed Star 45 Construction Manual, so hopefully you'll find this one useful. ...

Only one job to be done tonight, and that is to install the inner sheer rails. I couldn't also install the stringers because the rubber bands that are clamping the inner sheer rails need to use the stringer notches. The sheer rails are composed of two laminated strips on both sides of the hull where the hull meets the deck. The frames have notches for both the inner and outer sheer rails. The idea is that you epoxy on the inner sheer rail to the notches on the frames one day and let it cure. Then the next day you run epoxy down the entire length of the inner sheer rail and then laminate on the outer sheer rail. It's the lamination of the two rails that adds so much strength to the hull. The lamination also permanently holds the two rails together in the proper curve. Later on during planking, you will actually add, essentially, a third sheer rail when you laminate on the first plank. In this first picture, you can see the inner sheer rails on Frame 0. They are held toge...

Got the keel braces epoxied in. They butt up against the fin to transfer the load of the fin onto the frames and hull planking. The entire 10 lbs. of the fin bulb will put a lot of leverage on the top of the fin, which only extends into the hull less than 2". What the braces do is to lock the top of the fin at the edges of the slots so that the top of the fin is completely anchored to the frames. There is little chance of the top of the fin now breaking from the frames. I'm hoping that the three doubled frames with additional keel braces is enough to transfer that load. In the bilge, frame 5 is now 1/2" thick! And frames 4, 4.5, and 6 are all 3/8" thick. At this point, I'm actually quite confident that this arrangement will work. It also leaves the interior wide open, except for the mast support column, for the servo tray and lines. The keel braces added about 2 oz. but I feel that they are worth it. Now off to shape and fiberglass the rudder. P...