Planking continues. I'm awful at it. But I'm getting better. Still terrible, but better than when I started. And yes, I'm still using the stationary sander instead of the planer that the pros suggest. I just can't get it adjusted well enough to work for me. My plank making has improved though. I'm now ganging several planks together and sanding them as one. It's working well. My most recent attempt was six planks ganged together with clips. Here's my progress so far. Don't look too closely or you'll laugh. But when sanded out and glassed it'll look better. Only the pros will notice, and to them the rookie planking will be obvious, but to most people it will look fine. The building jig and clips I made for each frame are working really well! Much better than my actual planking.  You can be very creative with the rubber bands to put pressure wherever you wish. It really works well. Will probably need to consider doing t...

Only one job to be done tonight, and that is to install the inner sheer rails. I couldn't also install the stringers because the rubber bands that are clamping the inner sheer rails need to use the stringer notches. The sheer rails are composed of two laminated strips on both sides of the hull where the hull meets the deck. The frames have notches for both the inner and outer sheer rails. The idea is that you epoxy on the inner sheer rail to the notches on the frames one day and let it cure. Then the next day you run epoxy down the entire length of the inner sheer rail and then laminate on the outer sheer rail. It's the lamination of the two rails that adds so much strength to the hull. The lamination also permanently holds the two rails together in the proper curve. Later on during planking, you will actually add, essentially, a third sheer rail when you laminate on the first plank. In this first picture, you can see the inner sheer rails on Frame 0. They are held toge...

Big step today! I assembled and epoxied the frames for the Sun Wind II RC sailboat! First, I drilled out the rudder tube hole with a 5/32" bit. The gap that is designed into the aft rudder tube keel assembly easily guided the bit through the slot and simply widened the sides a tad. You can now see that the rectangular opening is now a circular hole. The 5/32" brass rudder tube will easily epoxy into it later on.  Then started on the frame assembly by epoxying the frames down onto the strongback. Then added epoxy to all the slots on both the frames and on the fin and keel assemblies. They all slipped together pretty well after a little adjusting and persuasion. Here is how it all looks while it cures. In this image you can see a rubber band holding up the half-frame (Frame 4.5), otherwise it would slip out. The planks clamped to the sides are to keep Frame 4.5 aligned with the other frames. In this image you can see the first use on this boat of the rubber ...

I found a great way to clamp planks while making my Star 45's and Vintage Marblehead's. My building boards are 8" wide. I hammer in strong thumbtacks into the side of the building board. You could also use nails or brads. (See pictures below) The idea is that you can loop rubber bands over the hull, or through the hull, or around specific planks as needed to keep pressure where you want it. The rubber bands simply hook onto the tacks. See my pictures below. The pictures below are from a Star 45 that I built a few years back. Used the same technique then too. Good luck on your build! Peace!