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Showing posts from 2019

The SAILSetc Block 65-SE in 3D

Got bored, plus I wanted to add it to the 3D Vickers V8 IOM I'm working on, so I modeled a SAILSetc Block 65-SE through-deck block for RC sailboats. It also turns the sheet direction, so it's sometimes called a turning block.




NOTE: There was some concern on RC Groups that I had copied his product without permission. I have not copied his product. I have only made a 3D drawing of his product, and I have actually purchased three of his blocks for installation in previous or current boats. 

Here was my response on RC Groups:

"This is just a drawing of his block. It's not a real block. There is no value in a picture of the block. You can’t make an actual block from this 3D file any more than you could from a pencil drawing or photograph of it. It’s not a manufacturing file. There are no internal parts in this shell. It’s only a drawing of the outside of it.

It’s used to help model 3D designs so that you know where you place bits and you know how it will fit and ho…

The Vickers V8 IOM 3D Model

Lots of progress has been made on the Vickers V8 IOM (International One Meter) R/C sailboat.

I'm about 80% finished so far. Will probably just sit on it for most of the summer and get start actually building it in September or October.

Here's how it looks so far:



While I have agreed to make the laser cut frames for the hull, I have no expectations that Ian Vickers will choose to use my internal bits. I have made some decisions for my own version of the boat, but if he ever decides to release the files I'm not sure if he'll allow my internal bits to be released. He'll probably just release the laser cut frames for the hull.

That said, I've made some decisions for my own version, which includes a scoop deck. I'm also dumping the plastic pot because I just hate the look of those things. My boat will have deck patches which I've found to work quite well.

Here's the scoop deck:





The scoop deck will allow a full-sized vang to swing through all points of sa…

The Vickers V8 IOM - Possible Next Build

A few weeks ago I emailed Ian Vickers to inquire if he might send me a DWG file for his very highly-regarded IOM, the V8. He agreed! So now I'm working on designing a laser-cut frames file so that I might make the boat later this fall.

I've already started. Here's what I have so far:



So far it's going well. My next steps are to design a main bulkhead, a mast well/fin box arrangement, a rudder frame, and on and on. But in the end it should be a nice way to build a V8.

My problem though is that I also now have the original digital computer files for two Frank Russell designs too... the Goth Mk4 and his newest IOM, the Ellipsis... In addition, I have the paper plans for the Alternative by Brad Gibson.

I'll almost certainly do the laser cut frames for all three, but which one to build first??





Aloha!




America's Cup Yacht Constellation from 1964

A few months ago I was finally able to get some time with "The Book" - America's Cup Yacht Designs, 1851 - 1986 by Francois Chevalier and Jacques Taglang.

In that book, the authors share extraordinary line drawings of the original designs. It has become the "go to" book for America's Cup enthusiasts. It has also become the go-to book for J-Class R/C (radio control) sailboat hobbyists. The lines shown in the book are among a very short list of acceptable design perimeters that the J Class people acknowledge. To make a qualifying J Class boat, you must stick to the measurements shown (with a slight addition to the draft allowed to account for water not scaling).

I was able to make many great scans for future modeling.

The J Class groups specifically sail 1/16 scale models of America's Cup yachts that were, duh, "J Class" boats - boats from the 1930's exclusively before the America's Cup switched to 12 meters after WWII.

The J boats are s…

3D Mast Ram for IOM's

Was bored yesterday and modeled a mast ram for IOM's.

That is all.



Aloha!



IOM Rig Box (IOM Sail Box) plans

So all the cool IOM kids seem to have nice wooden boxes to store their rigs in. This might be my next quick project then, so that I can pretend to be cool too. :-P

The rig box images that I've seen online are mostly similar, and would work well, but David Jensen from Bellevue, WA, USA (The same guy who designed a fantastic IOM boat stand I posted about earlier) has a really nice design that he shared on RC Groups. Or if that link doesn't work, the go here and search for "IOM sail box" or "IOM rig box".

It holds three sets of rigs for the A, B, and C rigs.


He also has a nifty way to attach his IOM boat stand, with a boat on it, to the rig box. His rig box has wheels attached, so once everything is loaded up he just wheels it to the launch spot. Very nice!



There are other sources online. They show different variations of the same type of sail box.

Here's a nice looking one.

Here's a YouTube video of a really nice one.

Will post more if I actually end…

Presenting the Corbie 5 Wooden IOM R/C Sailboat!

Ta DA! She's finished! My new, Corbie 5 wooden IOM RC sailboat is completed. Wood hulls look so much more classic than fiberglass. They may be a bit slower, but they look great.

For my first IOM I think it turned out well! Might have to make another one in the future though to fix all the mistakes I've made on this one... 

And I just had her maiden voyage. It went much better than expected given the confusion I've had with the rig.

The helm was almost perfectly neutral and I can easily adjust for a slight weather helm if desired. She floated, to my eye, right on her waterline.

There was at most 1 knot of wind in the gusts and hardly any otherwise, but she still went very well. It was a very exciting and trouble-free maiden voyage! And afterwards the inside was bone dry... not a drop.

I must thank Ian Dundas of Scotland for all of his incredible help and advice throughout this project! His patience in putting up with my incessant questions was endless. Thank you Ian! The …

Corbie 5 IOM Finishing (sanding and polishing)

I waited 48 hours after my second coat of Klass Kote clear 2-part urethane, and then tonight wet sanded starting with 1000 grit and worked up through 2000 grit, and polished the hull with three different grades of compounds and polishes using my Porter Cable 7424 polisher. It turned out really well. It'll look even better with a coat of wax on the topsides.

It still doesn't have the depth of shine that I'd like, but it's really close. I might even do the old scale modelers trick of spraying some Future floor polish on the topsides. It would really shine it up. 








I still can see a few pits and dips, but whatever... it's a hobby not a profession. I'm getting better but am a ways away from the guys who can get those deep, deep shines. Maybe someday.

To totally eliminate the small pits and remaining orange peel, I'd have to sand much more aggressively, and then risk cutting through the clear coat. Someday I'll try harder, but when I do I'll spray on fou…

Corbie 5 IOM Finishing (2nd coat of clear urethane)

Today I wet sanded with 800 grit and then sprayed on a second round of 2-part clear urethane. It looks better regarding the underlying scratches, but I'm still getting some orange peel.




I'll see how it looks when dry and then decide if I'll wet sand and polish the whole hull or just leave it as is.



Aloha!




Corbie 5 IOM Finishing (1st coat of clear urethane)

I've decided to forego any and all varnish for the Corbie 5 IOM sailboat. It would weigh too much and take too much time.

Instead I'm spraying Klass Kote Clear Urethane. It'll give a nice shine, good depth, and it has UV blockers.


I've only used this product once before and didn't get great results. This time I have a much better gun and so far it's clearly (pun intended) better. Still, it's not perfect. I'll let it dry overnight and then sand it with some 800 in spots and 1500 overall, and then give it another round of coats.




The pictures look good, but in person you can see at least two runs and maybe a sag. There are also some spots that just aren't that glossy. I think I had my gun at too high of a pressure (50psi) and I'll lower it to 35 psi tomorrow. Should be better.

Overall it's much better with this new gun, but it's still tricky to get a really nice coverage. Ugh! But to be fair, it's already looking better than if I had do…

Corbie 5 IOM Aft Deck Installed

The aft deck has now been epoxied onto the sheer planks and the inwales that I installed recently.

The red foam thing has a hole carved out on the bottom of it so that it can sit over the backstay eyebolt and yet hold down the deck evenly. 



This is from the scoop deck area, and shows the shroud eyebolts.


Here's how the aft deck looks after the epoxy has cured and the edges have been sanded.


Yes, you'll be able to see the edges of the plywood deck, but it's relatively clean look with crisp lines for the layers. If I ever do another boat I might try to inset the deck and glue it onto the inwales only, and then round over the sheer to meet flush with the deck. That would be a better look.








Aloha!





Corbie 5 progress, cont.

Haven't been posting much, but progress is continuing on the Corbie 5 IOM.

I've installed the transom plate. It's a very think lamination of mahogany veneer and a thin sheet of, I think, Alaskan yellow cedar that has had the boat's name laser cut into it. It gives a fun three-dimensional effect when polished.



The scoop deck has been installed, and now I'm installing thin strips along the inside of the sheer to act as additional epoxying surfaces for the foredeck and aft deck.



Off to an IOM regatta in Renton, WA this weekend to checkout current IOM rigging ideas.




Aloha!




Corbie 5 Foredeck

Ok, fine... I've given up on my artsy deck idea as I just couldn't get it to work exactly as I wanted. I've moved to a much more conventional idea, but still wanted a touch of bling, so I incorporated the design name into the deck.


It's two layers of 1/64" (.4mm) plywood laminated together. The top layer has Corbie 5 cut into it to reveal the bottom layer which is painted red. The top layer also has some degree markings, mostly just for looks, and the jib swivel holes cut out.

They were laminated over the form that I made. It held its shape well and will be easy to epoxy to the hull.


Here's how it looks just sitting on the hull.


After laminating, I added a small amount of epoxy to the cutouts. When that was dry I sanded it flush and then put on a layer of .73 oz cloth. It was later sanded down and is now ready for epoxying to the hull.



Lots more small detaily things to do still but I'll shortly be epoxying all three decks to the hull. Then it's on to t…