Skip to main content

First Coat Sanded. Second Coat of Epoxy Added.

The "Sun Wind II" Vintage Marblehead High Flyer wooden sailboat is coming along swimmingly...

Today started off by sanding the first epoxy/fiberglass coat from yesterday.

No matter how careful you are with your squeegee, you'll have some sags, runs, drips, areas where the cloth floats, ripples, low spots, etc... They need to be sanded level.

Wash off the Amine Blush: Start by washing the hull. Most epoxies leave a film on the surface once they are dry. It's called an amine blush. It comes off easily with warm water, so get a wash cloth or small towel and rinse it in hot tap water. Ring it out and wipe down the hull. Rinse and repeat several times. Let dry, or blow dry if you're rushed. 

Sand the Hull: I used 180 grit paper and sanded by hand so that the paper would conform to the curve of the hull. Got most of the high spots leveled down. The idea here is that you lower the high spots, runs, sags, drips, etc... and then paint on a second coat of epoxy to raise the low spots and fill the weave.

The next day you will then level that second coat and hope that the entire hull is now smooth. You might have to do a third coat. But don't freak out about added weight. You are sanding off some of the first coat, and most of the second (and possible third coats) so that in the end you really are left with one nicely built up coat and a smooth hull with no weave showing.

Yes, you will sand the final coat and leave it sanded. The epoxy should not be your outer layer, and you put will either varnish or paint over that sanded epoxy, both of which need some tooth to hang on to.

Here are some close-ups of my hull after the first sanding. You can clearly see high spots that have been sanded down, and low spots where the weave is still showing. Subsequent coats of epoxy should fill those low spots and will then be sanded flush to the hull by the final coat.

Next, I filleted in thickened epoxy at the hull/fin joint. This is only to conform with the Vintage Marblehead rules for the High Flyer division that say your garboards must have a 1" radius because that's how they were made back in the day. I'm not a fan of this rule, but whatever... I used epoxy thickened with phenolic powder, but micro-bubbles would probably be better because they lighten the weight of the epoxy. I suppose you could also use Bondo... tomorrow I will fair the fillet and then add more thickened epoxy only if needed.

Here's how it looks after the second coat of epoxy has been brushed on.

Tomorrow I'll lightly sand this second coat and see how fair the hull is. If needed, I'll add a third coat.

I also rounded over the bow piece and painted on some epoxy. Didn't wrap it in fiberglass cloth though... is that a mistake? Hmmm...?



Popular posts from this blog

IOM Rig Box (IOM Sail Box) plans

So all the cool IOM kids seem to have nice wooden boxes to store their rigs in. This might be my next quick project then, so that I can pretend to be cool too. :-P The rig box images that I've seen online are mostly similar, and would work well, but David Jensen from Bellevue, WA, USA (The same guy who designed a fantastic IOM boat stand I posted about earlier) has a really nice design that he shared on RC Groups . Or if that link doesn't work, the go here and search for " IOM sail box " or " IOM rig box ". It holds three sets of rigs for the A, B, and C rigs. He also has a nifty way to attach his IOM boat stand, with a boat on it, to the rig box. His rig box has wheels attached, so once everything is loaded up he just wheels it to the launch spot. Very nice! There are other sources online. They show different variations of the same type of sail box. Here's a nice looking one . Here's a YouTube video of a really nice one . Wil

IOM Sailboat Stand

I made an IOM boat stand! The plans are from David Jensen in Bellevue, WA, USA. I found the plans through someone else's blog here , and a model sailboat club from Australia here . It was pretty straightforward to build. My only contribution to the design is that I laser cut the cradle out of 1/8" Lite Ply. I made eight copies, and then epoxy laminated two sets of four each. Turned out really well. If you wish to laser cut your own set, here is my DWG file . You'll have to have your own laser cutter, or send the job to a laser cutting company like National Balsa . Here are the original plans , and here are the original plans for just the cradle . Thanks to David Jensen!! Note that in the picture below, my boat is not finished! Yikes. You can't see it in this image, but there's a small chuck of self-stick foam behind the bulb to protect the bulb. I'll eventually incorporate some Velcro or a strap of some sort to hold the bulb in place so

IOM Alignment and Measuring Jig (UPDATED)

I need to start to consider how I'll mount the fin and bulb, and get it all straight, so I made a 3D modeled alignment jig: Ian Dundas in Scottland sent me pictures of his setup. I just bought a laser level too! He does amazing work and has been a great help in this project so far. There is also another jig featured on page 14 of the winter 2008 Canadian Radio Yacht Association (CRYA) newsletter that features one. It's by Lawire Neish. Read it here . I took both those designs and made my own version that features sliding cradles for the hull, a fixed waterline sight, proper depth to cradles for the bulb, etc... Most of the parts can be laser cut, and the two end pieces and the base can easily be cut on a tablesaw. It has fixed waterline sights that are 420mm above the top edges of the bulb sliders in the base. The fore and aft cradles can be slid up and down to adjust the waterline of the hull. You'll see that the overall interior length is 1003mm t

A Wooden "Alternative" IOM RC Sailboat

Being forced to stay home due to the Coronavirus quarantine has had a positive impact on my boat building. I still haven't been able to sail my newly completed Vickers V8 IOM, yet have just planked and glassed a wooden Alternative IOM . It only took me eight days. It usually takes a couple weeks. I haven't been motivated to blog about it, but I started planking on 5 April and finished planking last night. Today I sanded and have fiberglassed the outside. The Alternative by Brad Gibson was a challenge to plank due to its up-swept bow and flared sheer near the bow. It turned out okay, but as any builder will tell you, there are goofs all over. One that I only discovered after sanding is a lighter colored plank on the starboard side. It really showed up after fiberglassing as the epoxy brought it out... GAAAAH! How did that get there? The other goofs I'll let you find, but that one is pretty obvious. Here's how it looks so far: Here you can see that mu