Haven't had too much time for planking this week, but have managed to get a few more planks on. Just added the final plank right at the turn of the chine. Had to bevel it, and the bevel had to vary over the length of the plank, but I think it turned out okay.
The planks look awful messy, but that's because I'm using epoxy instead of Titebond, and I'm not cleaning it up much except to wipe it flat. It'll sand easily later on, and I'm obviously not worried about staining because the entire hull will be covered in epoxy later.
My planking skills however leave much to be desired! You don't have to look too closely to see that my widths aren't very consistent. Yikes... oh well, it's my first planked boat with tapered planks. Gotta learn sometime!
In this first picture you can see the bevel near the stern on the top chine plank. The next planks will be "below" the chine and they will all be tapered and beveled.
Here you can see how the planks are wider at the bow and taper toward the stern. I added a thin, tapered accent plank made of Alaskan yellow cedar.
Looks sloppy but will easily sand clean. I'm much more worried about gaps between the planks. I've found and filled a couple so far with thickened epoxy.
Next step, start making many tapered and beveled planks and keep going!
Aloha!
The planks look awful messy, but that's because I'm using epoxy instead of Titebond, and I'm not cleaning it up much except to wipe it flat. It'll sand easily later on, and I'm obviously not worried about staining because the entire hull will be covered in epoxy later.
My planking skills however leave much to be desired! You don't have to look too closely to see that my widths aren't very consistent. Yikes... oh well, it's my first planked boat with tapered planks. Gotta learn sometime!
In this first picture you can see the bevel near the stern on the top chine plank. The next planks will be "below" the chine and they will all be tapered and beveled.
Here you can see how the planks are wider at the bow and taper toward the stern. I added a thin, tapered accent plank made of Alaskan yellow cedar.
Looks sloppy but will easily sand clean. I'm much more worried about gaps between the planks. I've found and filled a couple so far with thickened epoxy.
Next step, start making many tapered and beveled planks and keep going!
Aloha!
Hi Steve,
ReplyDeleteWhy did you decide to go with epoxy instead of Titebond?
IOM class. I am not that familiar with the rules. Is it required that the topsides be shaped as they are having a "cockpit and cabin roof" type configuration? Can the topside deck be made flat as is done with the Marblehead class?
Thanks,
Richard
Hi Richard,
ReplyDeleteI'm using epoxy instead of Titebond because it has a longer working time. I am able to work slowly and get the planks lined up just how I want them. The really experienced guys seem to be able to work faster than I can and they get away with using Titebond.
With epoxy, you have to mix small amounts and some people feel that that is a pain.
With Titebond though, you must be careful about cleaning up afterwards or you run the risk of seeing the glue under the fiberglass later on. It can leave a stain. With epoxy there is no worry about staining because it will all go invisible when the entire hull is fiberglassed.
Regarding the IOM rules, I too am new to the class so you'd be better off just doing some reading and research. That said, my understanding is that there are both "skiff" style which has a cabin/raised foredeck, and then there are also flat deck boats. IOM is a one-design rig and a development class hull but with very tight rules.
Good luck,
Steve
Hi Richard
ReplyDeleteIf you like you can look here how I did it: https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ff3zhkjegix5hg/IMG_20180606_175941_544.jpg?dl=0
Best regards
Markus
Thanks Richard.
ReplyDelete