Skip to main content

Corbie 5 IOM Planking, Part 2

Haven't had too much time for planking this week, but have managed to get a few more planks on. Just added the final plank right at the turn of the chine. Had to bevel it, and the bevel had to vary over the length of the plank, but I think it turned out okay.

The planks look awful messy, but that's because I'm using epoxy instead of Titebond, and I'm not cleaning it up much except to wipe it flat. It'll sand easily later on, and I'm obviously not worried about staining because the entire hull will be covered in epoxy later.

My planking skills however leave much to be desired! You don't have to look too closely to see that my widths aren't very consistent. Yikes... oh well, it's my first planked boat with tapered planks. Gotta learn sometime!

In this first picture you can see the bevel near the stern on the top chine plank. The next planks will be "below" the chine and they will all be tapered and beveled. 

Here you can see how the planks are wider at the bow and taper toward the stern. I added a thin, tapered accent plank made of Alaskan yellow cedar.

Looks sloppy but will easily sand clean. I'm much more worried about gaps between the planks. I've found and filled a couple so far with thickened epoxy.

Next step, start making many tapered and beveled planks and keep going!



  1. Hi Steve,

    Why did you decide to go with epoxy instead of Titebond?

    IOM class. I am not that familiar with the rules. Is it required that the topsides be shaped as they are having a "cockpit and cabin roof" type configuration? Can the topside deck be made flat as is done with the Marblehead class?


  2. Hi Richard,

    I'm using epoxy instead of Titebond because it has a longer working time. I am able to work slowly and get the planks lined up just how I want them. The really experienced guys seem to be able to work faster than I can and they get away with using Titebond.

    With epoxy, you have to mix small amounts and some people feel that that is a pain.

    With Titebond though, you must be careful about cleaning up afterwards or you run the risk of seeing the glue under the fiberglass later on. It can leave a stain. With epoxy there is no worry about staining because it will all go invisible when the entire hull is fiberglassed.

    Regarding the IOM rules, I too am new to the class so you'd be better off just doing some reading and research. That said, my understanding is that there are both "skiff" style which has a cabin/raised foredeck, and then there are also flat deck boats. IOM is a one-design rig and a development class hull but with very tight rules.

    Good luck,


  3. Hi Richard

    If you like you can look here how I did it:

    Best regards



Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

IOM Sailboat Stand

I made an IOM boat stand! The plans are from David Jensen in Bellevue, WA, USA. I found the plans through someone else's blog here , and a model sailboat club from Australia here . It was pretty straightforward to build. My only contribution to the design is that I laser cut the cradle out of 1/8" Lite Ply. I made eight copies, and then epoxy laminated two sets of four each. Turned out really well. If you wish to laser cut your own set, here is my DWG file . You'll have to have your own laser cutter, or send the job to a laser cutting company like National Balsa . Here are the original plans , and here are the original plans for just the cradle . Thanks to David Jensen!! Note that in the picture below, my boat is not finished! Yikes. You can't see it in this image, but there's a small chuck of self-stick foam behind the bulb to protect the bulb. I'll eventually incorporate some Velcro or a strap of some sort to hold the bulb in place so

IOM Rig Box (IOM Sail Box) plans

So all the cool IOM kids seem to have nice wooden boxes to store their rigs in. This might be my next quick project then, so that I can pretend to be cool too. :-P The rig box images that I've seen online are mostly similar, and would work well, but David Jensen from Bellevue, WA, USA (The same guy who designed a fantastic IOM boat stand I posted about earlier) has a really nice design that he shared on RC Groups . Or if that link doesn't work, the go here and search for " IOM sail box " or " IOM rig box ". It holds three sets of rigs for the A, B, and C rigs. He also has a nifty way to attach his IOM boat stand, with a boat on it, to the rig box. His rig box has wheels attached, so once everything is loaded up he just wheels it to the launch spot. Very nice! There are other sources online. They show different variations of the same type of sail box. Here's a nice looking one . Here's a YouTube video of a really nice one . Wil

A Wooden "Alternative" IOM RC Sailboat

Being forced to stay home due to the Coronavirus quarantine has had a positive impact on my boat building. I still haven't been able to sail my newly completed Vickers V8 IOM, yet have just planked and glassed a wooden Alternative IOM . It only took me eight days. It usually takes a couple weeks. I haven't been motivated to blog about it, but I started planking on 5 April and finished planking last night. Today I sanded and have fiberglassed the outside. The Alternative by Brad Gibson was a challenge to plank due to its up-swept bow and flared sheer near the bow. It turned out okay, but as any builder will tell you, there are goofs all over. One that I only discovered after sanding is a lighter colored plank on the starboard side. It really showed up after fiberglassing as the epoxy brought it out... GAAAAH! How did that get there? The other goofs I'll let you find, but that one is pretty obvious. Here's how it looks so far: Here you can see that mu

IOM Alignment and Measuring Jig (UPDATED)

I need to start to consider how I'll mount the fin and bulb, and get it all straight, so I made a 3D modeled alignment jig: Ian Dundas in Scottland sent me pictures of his setup. I just bought a laser level too! He does amazing work and has been a great help in this project so far. There is also another jig featured on page 14 of the winter 2008 Canadian Radio Yacht Association (CRYA) newsletter that features one. It's by Lawire Neish. Read it here . I took both those designs and made my own version that features sliding cradles for the hull, a fixed waterline sight, proper depth to cradles for the bulb, etc... Most of the parts can be laser cut, and the two end pieces and the base can easily be cut on a tablesaw. It has fixed waterline sights that are 420mm above the top edges of the bulb sliders in the base. The fore and aft cradles can be slid up and down to adjust the waterline of the hull. You'll see that the overall interior length is 1003mm t