Big day today... I cut the Corbie 5 IOM hull off of the alignment jig! Phew...
First I sanded the third coat of epoxy that I added yesterday. Then I used my waterline marking jig to mark the waterline. The waterline should be perfectly horizontal if you've used the frames properly. The manual indicates that it start 15mm aft of the back of the bumper, and run to 3mm forward of the stern. My tool holds a pen at an angle, and when it gets to flat areas like the stern it doesn't do as well as on more vertical surfaces. So I started at 15mm from the bow frame and ran it aft. It ended up about 14mm fwd of the stern, but that is due to my jig. I'll adjust slightly before I paint it on.
In this first picture you can see how it doesn't work as well. Yes, the cap is on... I'm not actually marking it yet.
Here you can see where it works much better and more accurately.
Then it was time to remove the hull!
TA DA!
This is after I cleaned up the insides. I didn't sand it completely down, so you can still see where the frames were, but I'm okay with that.
This is after I have epoxy coated the insides and the bulkheads. It weighs 453 grams. I'm pretty happy with the as it also includes the weight of the four built-in bulkheads.
Here is the aft built-in bulkhead that holds the rudder tube alignment pieces. It will eventually also hold the mainsheet return block.
This is the mainsheet post frame and alignment piece.
Here is the hull with the deck and the foredeck set on top. I'm going to have to redo the foredeck. I kinda like the funky, artsy look, but it currently weighs too much and just doesn't look right. I'm going to recut the same sheets, both in 1/64" (.4mm) ply and re-laminate them differently than this time. We'll see... it's all an experiment, right?!
Here is how the rudder tube area will look with the deck in place.
More later!
Aloha!
First I sanded the third coat of epoxy that I added yesterday. Then I used my waterline marking jig to mark the waterline. The waterline should be perfectly horizontal if you've used the frames properly. The manual indicates that it start 15mm aft of the back of the bumper, and run to 3mm forward of the stern. My tool holds a pen at an angle, and when it gets to flat areas like the stern it doesn't do as well as on more vertical surfaces. So I started at 15mm from the bow frame and ran it aft. It ended up about 14mm fwd of the stern, but that is due to my jig. I'll adjust slightly before I paint it on.
In this first picture you can see how it doesn't work as well. Yes, the cap is on... I'm not actually marking it yet.
Here you can see where it works much better and more accurately.
Then it was time to remove the hull!
TA DA!
This is after I cleaned up the insides. I didn't sand it completely down, so you can still see where the frames were, but I'm okay with that.
This is after I have epoxy coated the insides and the bulkheads. It weighs 453 grams. I'm pretty happy with the as it also includes the weight of the four built-in bulkheads.
Here is the aft built-in bulkhead that holds the rudder tube alignment pieces. It will eventually also hold the mainsheet return block.
This is the mainsheet post frame and alignment piece.
Here is the hull with the deck and the foredeck set on top. I'm going to have to redo the foredeck. I kinda like the funky, artsy look, but it currently weighs too much and just doesn't look right. I'm going to recut the same sheets, both in 1/64" (.4mm) ply and re-laminate them differently than this time. We'll see... it's all an experiment, right?!
Here is how the rudder tube area will look with the deck in place.
More later!
Aloha!
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