Skip to main content

Mock-up Glue-up

Starting now on the glue up of my initial run of laser cut frames for my Sun Wind II RC sailboat.

A NOTE about glue: At this point, I've now found enough tweaks, changes and improvements that I can do that it truly will be a "mock up" with no chance of ever becoming a working RC sailboat. So in that case, I'm just mostly using Titebond II to glue the bits instead of epoxy. However, I will refer to using epoxy for those who might not realize that this is a mock-up. For my actual build later on, I will use epoxy almost exclusively.

I started by making some 3/4" MDF bases for my rudder and fin glue-ups. The MDF is very flat and will provide an easy way to clamp the parts. This way, when I do the real boat, I can reuse the same bases. Just roughly trace around your fin and rudder parts onto the MDF and cut it out. Be sure to mark where the small 1/8" squares are, and then later drill out a much larger hole. I used a 1/2" hole. The idea is that you will use 1/8" stock to align all the pieces by sticking the stock through the holes in the parts. The excess will stick out the backside and through the large holes. The large holes just give you a little room to spare.


Then you can start to laminate the parts. Have some mylar sheets, or some copier transparencies, or even a cut up garbage bag. Epoxy doesn't stick to plastic well and you will use this as a way to make sure that the parts don't get adhered to the clamping base.

Have some short sticks of your 1/8" square stock ready to go, and make sure that they fit the square holes in the parts. Then spread some epoxy on the parts and set the next layer on top. Stick the 1/8" stock through at least two of the holes to perfectly align them, and then clamp down. Wipe up any squeeze-out. Remove the sticks once the clamp-up is secured or else they'll be glued in. That's OK for the last layers (in fact it's recommended), but you'll need at least two of those holes cleared for the additional layers later on.

Let fully cure.



Only do two layers at one time, at least for the first two layers. This will ensure that they are flat and very stiff when cured. At that point you can then glue as many remaining layers as you can handle, and you probably won't even need the clamping base at that point as the initial lamination can usually keep the parts flat enough.



Good luck!


Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Riptide RC Sailboat

Well I just hit the R/C Sailboat jackpot! Rod Carr, of Carr Sails in Redmond, WA, and the second ever member of the AMYA, just gifted me a Marblehead "Riptide" hull and many of the parts and templates to finish it! Thank you Rod!

I'm not sure when I'll be able to work on this, but hopefully it will turn into a fantastic vintage Marblehead. The gentleman who started it did a fantastic job. He was a true artist and I will do my best to get as close as I can to his workmanship but it will be a challenge.

Here are some pictures...


He even cast his own bulb and the mold came with the hull! I could probably start making my own fleet of Riptides as he also gave me many of the templates and such. I will only need to pin and epoxy the bulb to the fin and fair it smooth. It will be easy to do.


The frames look and feel like he hand cut them on a scroll saw, but they are very close to perfect. He used thicker plywood than I may have but they are very sturdy. The bow is very squ…

R/C Sailboat Builds

Here are the other boats I've built in the past few years:


1. A Tippecanoe T37. These are kits available from Tippecanoe Boats in Washington State.








2. A classic, wooden, Star 45. It has been officially measured and is class legal. The Star 45 is a pretty, classy, builders boat that has withstood the test of time.







3. A Salish 475. It's my own variation on the Star 45. It was built from the same laser cut frames as the Star with a number of modifications aft of frame 6. It is an update of the classic look and was an attempt to mimic a modern ocean racing yacht.










I've also built four Pygmy kayaks and many other projects. It's all fun... right?!


Aloha!

Radio controlled sailboats

IOM Rig Box (IOM Sail Box) plans

So all the cool IOM kids seem to have nice wooden boxes to store their rigs in. This might be my next quick project then, so that I can pretend to be cool too. :-P

The rig box images that I've seen online are mostly similar, and would work well, but David Jensen from Bellevue, WA, USA (The same guy who designed a fantastic IOM boat stand I posted about earlier) has a really nice design that he shared on RC Groups. Or if that link doesn't work, the go here and search for "IOM sail box" or "IOM rig box".

It holds three sets of rigs for the A, B, and C rigs.


He also has a nifty way to attach his IOM boat stand, with a boat on it, to the rig box. His rig box has wheels attached, so once everything is loaded up he just wheels it to the launch spot. Very nice!



There are other sources online. They show different variations of the same type of sail box.

Here's a nice looking one.

Here's a YouTube video of a really nice one.

Will post more if I actually end…

Sun Wind RC Sailboat 3D Model

One of my current projects is to 3D model Gus Lassel's 1949 "Sun Wind" Vintage Marblehead (VM) sailboat. Apparently it was originally called the "Sun Daze", as in fun sailing on Sundays, according to Adrian Olson whose father had a connection to the original designer. (By the way, check out Adrian's other model yachts too. He does beautiful work!)

Boats back then were free-sailing or vane-sailing. I think this was a free-sailing boat but am not sure. My version will be modified for RC. All I have to go by is an old set of lines, but hopefully I can get a decent model out of it. Eventually I would like to make laser-cut frames from my 3D model and actually recreate the boat in RC.

Adrian Olson offers a modern fiberglass kit for the Sun Wind. The pictures look beautiful! My intention is to create frames so that a builder can make their own wood & fiberglass version. I really doubt that many people will want to go through the effort it can take to make a …