Skip to main content

Corbie 5 IOM Frames

Still haven't received my rudder or fin from Radio Sailing Shop, but have added a few more additions to my 3D model.

In the rendering below, the greenish wood colored parts are the temporary frames. They look funny toward the deck because only the hull portions are showing. The lighter colored, yellowish wood bits are permanent. 



I've added the rudder tube frame and alignment bit. I've added some fore-and-aft support beams for the aft deck, and I've started to work on the aft deck. There's also a mast post support beam. Here are just the permanent parts:



The rudder alignment piece looks large and heavy, but it's neither. In fact, depending on which rudder you use, you may be able to cut this down significantly and only use the aft end of it. What is shown is for rudders that need to be placed from 60mm to 85mm from the transom. If you're using a rudder that needs less than 85mm, just cut the forward portion off.

Here's how the aft deck looks so far, but won't be able to finalize it until after I figure out what I'm going to do with the fin and mast box.



Here's how the electronics fit so far. Will certainly have to move them around though. However, I do not plan on using one of those ugly plastic pots that many IOM sailors use today to keep some of their electronics dry.

My hull will be pretty dry, but I'm also using electronics that can handle a small amount of wetness. The receiver for example is waterproof. The rudder servo is waterproof. The LiPo battery is wrapped and should be OK. In fact, the RC hydroplane guys don't worry about their LiPo's at all and they get theirs completely soaked.

The RMG winch will be a bit of a risk, but I sooooo don't want a pot that I'm willing to take the risk.




Here are just the electronics. I downloaded from the Sketchup Pro 3D Warehouse the receiver and rudder servo that someone else had uploaded. I also used the plugs from someone else for my battery but modeled my own battery. The RMG 285 SmartWinch I modeled myself but only roughly just to show the space needed. I didn't model the gears and such.. just the space taken up and the mounting plate. It works well enough for my 3D modeling needs!




So these are what will stay in the boat. Hopefully it won't add toooooo much weight.



Aloha!




Comments

Popular posts from this blog

IOM Alignment and Measuring Jig (UPDATED)

I need to start to consider how I'll mount the fin and bulb, and get it all straight, so I made a 3D modeled alignment jig:



Ian Dundas in Scottland sent me pictures of his setup. I just bought a laser level too! He does amazing work and has been a great help in this project so far.




There is also another jig featured on page 14 of the winter 2008 Canadian Radio Yacht Association (CRYA) newsletter that features one. It's by Lawire Neish. Read it here.

I took both those designs and made my own version that features sliding cradles for the hull, a fixed waterline sight, proper depth to cradles for the bulb, etc... Most of the parts can be laser cut, and the two end pieces and the base can easily be cut on a tablesaw.

It has fixed waterline sights that are 420mm above the top edges of the bulb sliders in the base. The fore and aft cradles can be slid up and down to adjust the waterline of the hull. You'll see that the overall interior length is 1003mm to accommodate the aft…

IOM Rig Box (IOM Sail Box) plans

So all the cool IOM kids seem to have nice wooden boxes to store their rigs in. This might be my next quick project then, so that I can pretend to be cool too. :-P

The rig box images that I've seen online are mostly similar, and would work well, but David Jensen from Bellevue, WA, USA (The same guy who designed a fantastic IOM boat stand I posted about earlier) has a really nice design that he shared on RC Groups. Or if that link doesn't work, the go here and search for "IOM sail box" or "IOM rig box".

It holds three sets of rigs for the A, B, and C rigs.


He also has a nifty way to attach his IOM boat stand, with a boat on it, to the rig box. His rig box has wheels attached, so once everything is loaded up he just wheels it to the launch spot. Very nice!



There are other sources online. They show different variations of the same type of sail box.

Here's a nice looking one.

Here's a YouTube video of a really nice one.

Will post more if I actually end…

IOM Sailboat Stand

I made an IOM boat stand!



The plans are from David Jensen in Bellevue, WA, USA. I found the plans through someone else's blog here, and a model sailboat club from Australia here.

It was pretty straightforward to build. My only contribution to the design is that I laser cut the cradle out of 1/8" Lite Ply. I made eight copies, and then epoxy laminated two sets of four each. Turned out really well.



If you wish to laser cut your own set, here is my DWG file. You'll have to have your own laser cutter, or send the job to a laser cutting company like National Balsa. Here are the original plans, and here are the original plans for just the cradle. Thanks to David Jensen!!

Note that in the picture below, my boat is not finished! Yikes.


You can't see it in this image, but there's a small chuck of self-stick foam behind the bulb to protect the bulb. I'll eventually incorporate some Velcro or a strap of some sort to hold the bulb in place so that I can use the carry-han…

Rip Tide RC Sailboat

Well I just hit the R/C Sailboat jackpot! Rod Carr, of Carr Sails in Redmond, WA, and the second ever member of the AMYA, just gifted me a Marblehead "Rip Tide" hull and many of the parts and templates to finish it! Thank you Rod!

I'm not sure when I'll be able to work on this, but hopefully it will turn into a fantastic vintage Marblehead. The gentleman who started it did a fantastic job. He was a true artist and I will do my best to get as close as I can to his workmanship but it will be a challenge.

Here are some pictures...


He even cast his own bulb and the mold came with the hull! I could probably start making my own fleet of Rip Tides as he also gave me many of the templates and such. I will only need to pin and epoxy the bulb to the fin and fair it smooth. It will be easy to do.


The frames look and feel like he hand cut them on a scroll saw, but they are very close to perfect. He used thicker plywood than I may have but they are very sturdy. The bow is very s…